Magazine for the professional nail industry.
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Honing Your Skills Common Causes of Nail Service BREAKDOWN When it comes to service breakdown, a handful of common slip-ups and mistakes are often at the root of the problem. Clients can share the blame too, by abusing their own nails and causing damage, but NAILS compiled a list of 10 common application mishaps to help you keep your enhancement applications flawless. BY TIM CROWLEY 1. Improper nail prep Improper prep can cause nail enhancements to lift and chip off the nail, and it's one of the most common reasons behind service breakdown. Whether applying an acrylic, gel, gelpolish, or regular polish, it is very important that the nail bed be free of any dead skin or oils so the product can make a nice adhesion to the nail. When prepping the nail, use a plastic, wooden, or metal cuticle pusher, and be sure to use smooth, gentle pressure on the nail plate to avoid damaging the natural nail. Cuticle solvents and removers are a must for cleaning the nail plate. They are available in different consistencies, scents, and active ingredients, and are designed to soften cuticles and aid in the removal of excess tissue. With cuticle nippers and cutters, remember less is more. Only trim or nip areas where the excess tissue is not attached. Overdoing trimming can lead to additional tissue growth as the body repairs itself, which will lead to thicker and more obvious cuticle tissue. 2. Forgetting to put primer on before acrylic A problem for many techs when they first start — forgetting to put primer onto the nails before the acrylic application — will directly lead to nail enhancements lifting and popping off the nails. Primer is specifically designed for getting acrylic to adhere better to the nail. It acts similarly to two-sided tape. Most acrylic does not stick well to the natural nail, so a primer is used with a chemical makeup of monomers that bond to the nail as well as to the acrylic so the bond is extra strong. Nail techs unfortunate enough to have gone through this will likely never forget again, as clients will soon be coming in upset that their acrylics are coming off. Remember when applying primer to keep it off the skin, as it can be an irritant, and to keep applications thin. One coat is typically enough, and applying too much primer can actually decrease adhesion. 3. Applying gel-polish too thickly With gel-polish it's important to be able to get a good cure so the color will create a hard surface that will stay on without chipping for at least two weeks. When the gel-polish has been applied too thickly, the suggested manufacturer curing time might not be enough to create a full cure, which can lead to peeling. Most manufacturers will recommend two coats for solid color coverage, so use the three stroke method to help keep your applications thin. Use three long, fluid strokes: one down the center, then two on either side. And you can use balance point positioning to keep a steady hand and get better nail coverage. The thumb and forefinger of the holding hand pinch the client's finger to pull back the soft tissue from the nail plate. This makes the nail bed a little bigger and ensures complete gel-polish coverage. 56 | 2013 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK