Magazine for the professional nail industry.
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4. Not pinching the C-curve The C-curve really shows how well an enhancement has been applied, and C-curves that are too flat will look unnatural and gawky. Pinching is usually done with the fingers or specially designed tweezers, where pressure is applied to the sidewalls of the nail to help "bend" the free edge of the extension into a nice "C" shape. C-curves begin during the sculpting stage. So whether you're using acrylic or gel, make sure the form fits correctly underneath the nail and that it follows the nail's natural curvature. When pinching the nail, remember to use only a bit of pressure to gently mold the curve into the "C" shape. If the nails are pinched too tightly you can cause damage and even cause a break in the enhancement. For gels, you can use clips to help hold the C-curve shape, and for acrylics you can use C-curve sticks to help bend the enhancement around to give you that perfect C-curve shape. 5. Incorrect acrylic mix ratio Another very common problem with acrylics is not getting the proper mix ratio of liquid to powder. Each product line mixes a little differently, and it takes some time to master the proper mix ratio. An easy way to spot an improper mix ratio is to look at how the bead appears on the brush. When trying to achieve a perfect mix ratio, the first thing to remember is you want a minimal amount of the bead attached to the brush hairs. This will allow for a quick, easy release onto the nail. If your bead is too wet, depending on the angle of the brush, the bead will flatten out on the brush hairs and drip off. And if your bead is too dry, the bead will likely have a dry powder coating and will not have a smooth surface. The ideal bead should be smooth, round, and plump, and suspended lightly on the brush hairs. Achieving a proper mix ratio takes practice and repetition, but it is an essential skill to master. Improper mix ratios can have serious effects on enhancements, leading to signs of service breakdown sometimes as soon as 24 hours after the application. An improper mix ratio often manifests as bubbles or a cloudy appearance in the enhancement, or potential lifting and nail weakness. PHOTO COURTESY NAIL STRUCTURE AND PRODUCT CHEMISTRY, 2ND EDITION, BY DOUG SCHOON 6. Not changing your UV lamp bulbs As LED lights become more popular, changing bulbs becomes less of a concern because LED lights are made to last for the duration of the lamp, which is about 50,000 hours. But traditional compact fluorescent light (CFL) lamps have about 10,000 hours' worth of bulb life, and it's recommended that you replace the bulbs at regular time intervals depending on the amount of use. A tell-tale sign of bulb inefficiency is if you notice the tacky layer on your clients' nails getting thicker, or if you see small air pockets or cloudiness in the enhancement. Undercured gels can also lead to a host of other service breakdowns like lifting, breaking, and discoloration. If you have 30 to 40 gel clients a week, the bulbs should be changed every four to six months. If you have 20 gel clients a week, change your bulbs every six to eight months. Once a year is sufficient for nail techs with less than 20 gel clients a week. NAILS TROUBLESHOOTER SERIES You can check out video demonstrations of many of these service breakdowns at the NAILS Troubleshooter tab on NAILStv. The series of videos feature top manufacturer educators giving their best advice and techniques on a range of topics from cleaning the cuticle to fun and quick nail art designs. 1. For a video on how to achieve a proper mix ratio, go to www.nailsmag.com/video/mixratio. 2. And for a demonstration on how to clean the nail plate, go to www.nailsmag.com/video/cleancuticle. 3. A new Troubleshooter video goes out every week with the NAILS Troubleshooter e-newsletter. You can sign up for it at www.nailsmag.com/enews/signup. 1 2 3 2013 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK | 57