Magazine for the professional nail industry.
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Honing Your Skills 7. Not capping the free edge with gel-polish One of the most important steps to applying gelpolish is to cap the free edge. When gels are cured they shrink. So it is important that the product continues down over the free edge (but not underneath) so it does not recede back over the top of the nail. One way to do this is as you apply the gel-polish down one side of the nail and reach the free edge, turn the brush slightly and swipe the hairs across and down the free edge toward the center to seal it. Repeat on the other side of the nail, flicking the brush along the first half of the edge toward the center to seal it. Then make your final stroke down the center of the nail, swiping down over the free edge when you reach the end. Another technique is to first apply a thin layer of gel-polish right on the free edge before beginning your regular gel-polish application. 9. Over filing Excessive filing of the nails leaves the natural nail bed thin and weak, and not a good platform for enhancements. If the nails have been filed down too thin, the enhancements will not bond well to the natural nail and lifting can occur. When the nail is thin and weak, it is much more flexible and allows the enhancement product to bend more. When flexed excessively, enhancements can get small hairline fractures that lead to breakage and tiny cracks that can get bigger over time. Very thin nails can also allow enhancement products to possibly seep through the nail plate and onto the nail bed causing allergic reactions. Another concern with over-filing is that onycholysis can occur — where the nail plate separates from the nail bed. Once this occurs, the space in the nail plate and nail bed becomes extremely susceptible to infection. 58 | 2013 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK 8. Unbalanced nail enhancements When constructing a nail enhancement, especially a sculpted extension, the shape of the nail is very important to its strength and durability. Similar to a building's architecture, the overall balance of a nail enhancement determines whether it will last. For a nail extension to be structurally sound, it must have an apex located over the stress area and in proportion to the length of the extension. For short natural nails this is the center of the nail, and for longer extensions the apex is situated just a shade down from the middle of the nail toward the cuticle. Putting the apex here helps to anchor the extension and give it added flexibility. If your apex is too far back toward the cuticle, or if you have product there that is too thick, then the extension will be off balance and at a greater risk of breaking. Too far forward will pull the free edge downward over the fingertip. Angling your brush when applying acrylic at the cuticle area helps create a natural arch toward the apex. And finish filing techniques help you to refine the apex. 10. Improper product storage Just as with food, old nail products can go bad. And when products go bad, nail enhancements break down. With proper storage you can significantly extend the shelf life of your nail products, and by keeping in mind expiration dates, you can make sure this never becomes a problem. Make sure to keep all lids closed tightly and products stored away in a cool dry place when not in use. Gels should be stored away from sunlight if possible, because any light that seeps in will begin to harden the gel. Acrylic powder lids need to be tightly closed so moisture in the air does not interact with the powder. If acrylic powder is compromised it tends to discolor and change in texture. Nail polish that has been sitting around a while will begin to thicken and clump, but a good shake is usually enough to remix the lacquer and give a good color application. But if the polish becomes stringy and unworkable, then it's usually time to dispose of it.