Magazine for the professional nail industry.
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140 | NAILS MAGAZINE | DECEMBER 2015 skin. These components will restore volume loss that makes underlying veins and tendons more prominent. Look for alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs), retinols, and antioxidants. AHAs are derived from milk and fruit sugars. Lactic acid and glycolic acid are the most common alpha hydroxyl acids. They penetrate the skin very well and are available in various concentrations; the stronger concentrations are used in chemical peels. Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is a powerful exfoliant that stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen. Retinols are extremely effective at reversing sun damage, treating acne, and frming the skin. According to WebMD, research has found that antioxidants, specifcally vitamins C and E and selenium, can help protect the skin against sun damage and skin cancer. In fact, some of the discoloration and wrinkles associated with aging may actually be reversed with the use of antioxidants, as they work by hastening the skin's natural repair systems and preventing further damage. And what about those brown spots? "Products that focus on skin pigment alterations will be more exfoliative, as many of the pigmentary changes from aging and sun exposure cause superfcial pigment deposition," Adigun says. "These products can lead to signifcant improvement. These include: plant What if your clients don't have the money or inclination to visit a cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon for hand rejuvenation? Fortunately, topical products have come a long way in the past few years, and there's a lot you can do to address your clients' concerns right in the salon. "Products need to address multiple factors of aging in the hands, primarily volume loss and pigmentary changes," explains board-certifed dermatologist and nail specialist, Chris Adigun, MD. "Volume-restorative products can act to address volume loss in the upper layer of the skin. Key components here will be products that are hydrating to restore the 'plumpness' that has been lost." Adigun suggests using products with hyaluronic acids and ceramides (proteins that assist in maintaining moisture). Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the human body that maintains skin's elasticity and moisture. It creates a moisture barrier on the skin when used topically. Ceramides are lipid molecules that are found in high concentrations within cell membranes. In skincare products, ceramides strengthen the skin's natural barrier, protect it from environmental factors, and restore moisture. Adigun explains that other volume-restorative products focus on collagen stimulation in the deeper layers in the Topical Alternatives