Magazine for the professional nail industry.
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58 | 2014 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK When constructing a nail enhancement, especially a sculpted extension, the shape of the nail is very impor- tant to its strength and durability. Similar to a building's architecture, the overall balance of a nail enhancement determines whether it will last. For a nail extension to be structurally sound, it must have an apex located over the stress area and in proportion to the length of the exten- sion. For short natural nails this is the center of the nail, and for longer extensions the apex is situated just a shade down from the middle of the nail toward the cuticle. Putting the apex here helps to anchor the extension and give it added flexibility. If your apex is too far back toward the cuticle, or if you have product there that is too thick, then the extension will be off balance and at a greater risk of breaking. Too far forward will pull the free edge downward over the fingertip. Angling your brush when applying acrylic at the cuticle area helps create a natural arch toward the apex. And finish filing techniques help you to refine the apex. Common Causes Nail Service BREAKDOWN of When it comes to service breakdown, a handful of common slip-ups and mistakes are often at the root of the problem. Clients can share the blame too, by abusing their own nails and causing damage, but NAILS compiled a list of 10 common application mishaps to help you keep your enhancement applications fawless. Improper prep can cause nail enhancements to lift and chip off the nail, and it's one of the most common reasons behind service breakdown. Whether applying an acrylic, gel, gel- polish, or regular polish, it is very important that the nail bed be free of any dead skin or oils so the product can make a nice adhesion to the nail. When prepping the nail, use a plastic, wooden, or metal cuticle pusher, and be sure to use smooth, gentle pressure on the nail plate to avoid damaging the natural nail. Cuticle solvents and removers are a must for cleaning the nail plate. They are available in different consistencies, scents, and active ingredients, and are designed to soften cuticles and aid in the removal of excess tissue. With cuticle nippers and cutters, remember less is more. Only trim or nip areas where the excess tissue is not attached. Overdoing trimming can lead to additional tissue growth as the body repairs itself, which will lead to thicker and more obvious cuticle tissue. 58 | 2014 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK >>> BY TIM CROWLEY