60 | 2014 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK
A problem for many techs when they first start — forgetting
to put primer onto the nails before the acrylic application —
will directly lead to nail enhancements lifting and popping
off the nails. Primer is specifically designed for getting acrylic
to adhere better to the nail. It acts similar to two-sided tape.
Most acrylic does not stick well to the natural nail, so a primer
is used with a chemical makeup of monomers that bond to the
nail as well as to the acrylic so the bond is extra strong.
Nail techs unfortunate enough to have gone through this
will likely never forget again, as clients will soon be coming in
upset that their acrylics are coming off.
Remember when applying primer to keep it off the skin, as
it can be an irritant, and to keep applications thin. One coat is
typically enough, and applying too much primer can actually
decrease adhesion.
With gel-polish it's important to be able to get a good
cure so the color will create a hard surface that will stay
on without chipping for at least two weeks. When the
gel-polish has been applied too thickly, the suggested
manufacturer curing time might not be enough to create
a full cure, which can lead to peeling. Most manufacturers
will recommend two coats for solid color coverage, so use
the three stroke method to help keep your applications thin.
Use three long, fluid strokes: one down the center,
then two on either side. And you can use balance point
positioning to keep a steady hand and get better nail
coverage. The thumb and forefinger of the holding hand
pinch the client's finger to pull back the soft tissue from
the nail plate. This makes the nail bed a little bigger and
ensures complete gel-polish coverage.
For a video on how to
achieve a proper mix ratio,
go to www.nailsmag.com/
video/mixratio.
And for a demonstration on
how to clean the nail plate,
go to www.nailsmag.com/
video/cleancuticle.
A new Troubleshooter video
goes out every week with
the NAILS Troubleshooter
e-newsletter. You can sign
up for it at www.nailsmag.
com/enews/signup.
The C-curve really shows how well an enhancement has been
applied, and C-curves that are too flat will look unnatural and
gawky. Pinching is usually done with the fingers or specially
designed tweezers, where pressure is applied to the sidewalls
of the nail to help "bend" the free edge of the extension into a
nice "C" shape.
C-curves begin during the sculpting stage. So whether
you're using acrylic or gel, make sure the form fits correctly
underneath the nail and that it follows the nail's natural
curvature. When pinching the nail, remember to use only a bit
of pressure to gently mold the curve into the "C" shape. If the
nails are pinched too tightly you can cause damage and even
cause a break in the enhancement.
For gels, you can use clips to help hold the C-curve shape,
and for acrylics you can use C-curve sticks to help bend the
enhancement around to give you that perfect C-curve shape.
60 | 2014 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK
You can check out video demonstrations of many of
these service breakdowns at the NAILS Troubleshooter
tab on NAILStv. The series of videos feature top manufacturer
educators giving their best advice and techniques on a range of
topics from cleaning the cuticle to fun and quick nail art designs.
>>>