Nails Magazine

Career Handbook 2014

Magazine for the professional nail industry.

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62 | 2014 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK 62 | 2014 NAILS CAREER HANDBOOK As LED lights become more popular, changing bulbs becomes less of a concern because LED lights are made to last for the duration of the lamp, which is about 50,000 hours. But traditional compact fluorescent light (CFL) lamps have about 10,000 hours' worth of bulb life, and it's recommended that you replace the bulbs at regular time intervals depending on the amount of use. A tell-tale sign of bulb inefficiency is if you notice the tacky layer on your clients' nails getting thicker, or if you see small air pockets or cloudiness in the enhancement. Undercured gels can also lead to a host of other service breakdowns like lifting, breaking, and discoloration. If you have 30 to 40 gel clients a week, the bulbs should be changed every four to six months. If you have 20 gel clients a week, change your bulbs every six to eight months. Once a year is sufficient for nail techs with less than 20 gel clients a week. PHOTO COURTESY NAIL STRUCTURE AND PRODUCT CHEMISTRY, 2ND EDITION, BY DOUG SCHOON One of the most important steps to applying gel-polish is to cap the free edge. When gels are cured they shrink. So it is important that the product continues down over the free edge (but not underneath) so it does not recede back over the top of the nail. One way to do this is as you apply the gel-polish down one side of the nail and reach the free edge, turn the brush slightly and swipe the hairs across and down the free edge toward the center to seal it. Repeat on the other side of the nail, flicking the brush along the first half of the edge toward the center to seal it. Then make your final stroke down the center of the nail, swiping down over the free edge when you reach the end. Another technique is to first apply a thin layer of gel-polish right on the free edge before beginning your regular gel-polish application. Another very common problem with acrylics is not getting the proper mix ratio of liquid to powder. Each product line mixes a little differently, and it takes some time to master the proper mix ratio. An easy way to spot an improper mix ratio is to look at how the bead appears on the brush. When trying to achieve a perfect mix ratio, the first thing to remember is you want a minimal amount of the bead attached to the brush hairs. This will allow for a quick, easy release onto the nail. If your bead is too wet, depending on the angle of the brush, the bead will flatten out on the brush hairs and drip off. And if your bead is too dry, the bead will likely have a dry powder coating and will not have a smooth surface. The ideal bead should be smooth, round, and plump, and suspended lightly on the brush hairs. Achieving a proper mix ratio takes practice and repetition, but it is an essential skill to master. Improper mix ratios can have serious effects on enhancements, leading to signs of service breakdown sometimes as soon as 24 hours after the application. An improper mix ratio often manifests as bubbles or a cloudy appearance in the enhancement, or potential lifting and nail weakness.

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