Magazine for the professional nail industry.
Issue link: http://nailsmag.epubxp.com/i/753141
The How To Do Anything Better Guide 800.354.6741 www.nsinails.com sponsored by 5 SECRETS TO BUILDING Even Stronger Gel Enhancements To achieve gel enhancements that will stay in place and look gorgeous week after week, it's all about the up-front work. Just as an architectural structure is vulnerable to collapse or premature deterioration if the original design, engineering, or construction is faulty, the same holds true for gel extensions. Professionals and educators at NSI present five key areas that will significantly influence your final results. 1. Prep your nails to stick, not to lift. When you prep the nail it is important to remove the cuticle and dehydrate the nail completely to create an ideal building surface. Cuticle remnants act as a candle wick and will transfer oils to the underside of the enhancement. Leaving moisture and contaminants behind will block proper adhesion. 2. Give the cuticles a little space. Leave a tiny margin around the cuticle and sidewalls. If the gel runs into the cuticle or sidewall it will lift, caused by any natural oils transferred from the skin. Allow the bead to flow smoothly towards the cuticle area and become flush with the natural nail. This is also important because allowing product to touch your client's skin is a sure way to overexpose her and cause sensitization. 3. Bring enhancement breakdown to light. The primary cause of gel enhancement breakdown is gel that has not been properly cured. If you are using tips or forms, make sure they are clear so the light energy can penetrate through to ensure a complete cure. It is important to use a lamp that is compatible with the gel system you are using. The NSI Dual Cure lamp will completely cure UV and LED products of any type. 4. The apex is all about placement. The proper placement and thickness of the apex will add strength to the nail enhancement. The apex should be placed over the stress area of the nail, located midway between the cuticle line and the extension edge. The position of the apex will change depending on the length of the enhancement and design of the nail and will not necessarily be over the free edge of the natural nail. 5. The C-curve is a natural for strength. The C-curve is extremely important for creating a strong gel enhancement. A nail that is flat has a very weak structure and can crumble with even a minor bump. Creating a proper C-curve will provide a strong lateral structure that is both durable and resilient; it also contributes to the illusion of a beautiful natural nail.