Magazine for the professional nail industry.
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DECEMBER 2015 | NAILS MAGAZINE | 135 >>> Hyaluronic acid: Creates a moisture barrier and plumps the skin Ceramides: Plump the skin, restore moisture, protect skin from environmental damage Alpha hydroxyl acid (AHAs): Exfoliants; used in high concentration in chemical peels Retinol: Powerful exfoliant; stimulates production of hyaluronic acid and collagen; reverses sun damage, treats acne, frms the skin Antioxidants: Help protect the skin against sun damage and skin cancer; reverses discoloration and wrinkles Plant extracts: Gently exfoliate the skin Hydroquinone: A chemical compound that lightens dark spots Kojic acid: A compound derived from several species of fungi that lightens dark spots INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR: Your clients come to you for beautiful nails, and by extension, beautiful hands. You can apply gorgeous color and stunning art to their nails, but unless the health and beauty of the skin is maintained, hands will show their age. It's easy to recognize the telltale signs of aging on the hands. Thinning of the skin and volume loss is a hallmark of aging skin and will happen faster when combined with chronic sun exposure. The loss of plumpness (subcutaneous fat) in the skin causes the hands to have a more 'bony' or 'skeletal' appearance. Blood vessels and tendons become more visible and the texture of the skin is more 'crepey,' (like crepe paper). In addition, sun spots — brown spots on the tops of the hands (lentigos) from chronic sun exposure in years past — come out as we age. "Hand rejuvenation is becoming more and more popular," says diplomat of the American Board of Dermatology, Lorrie Klein, MD. "Like our face, our hands show our age and how much sun exposure we've had. People spend time and money on improving how their face looks, but often neglect their hands. You can hide your age when people see your face, but if you don't treat your hands as well, you're still revealing your age to others." Klein explains that, like facial rejuvenation, a combined approach works best to combat aging hands because skin ages in several ways: It thins and becomes dry, lax, and fragile; brown spots develop, and it becomes more transparent, making blood vessels visible. Cosmetic procedures exist to address all of these issues. Klein's treatment protocol combines three to four different treatments, including lasers, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), and fllers. For smoothing wrinkles and scars and lightening brown spots, lasers and IPL work wonders. The laser's light energy penetrates the top layers of the skin to resurface it and stimulates collagen growth. Laser treatments usually last between 15-45 minutes. Because the laser treatment works with your body's natural skin cells, results take 1-3 weeks. IPL, a technology similar to laser, is good for eliminating age spots and small blood vessels. The light energy penetrates the top skin layers and destroys the pigment (age spots) or blood vessels, and the body's natural repair mechanism eliminates the damaged tissue. These treatments run anywhere from $200-500 per treatment, and several might be needed. If you don't keep getting sun exposure, Klein says, the results from lasers and IPL can be permanent or last for years. Often the most dramatic cosmetic beneft is with injectable dermal fllers. These fllers can hide blood vessels and plump skin. For volume loss, Klein uses Radiesse and Voluma Juvederm. Radiesse is a calcium-based injectable gel that replenishes skin's lost volume and stimulates collagen growth. Voluma Juvederm is a thicker injectable hyaluronic acid gel that works similarly and instantly adds volume. These treatments run $1,000 to $2,000 and will need to be redone every nine to 24 months. But what about side effects? "There are always risks with procedures," explains Klein. "But they're rare with good technique and a good device." With lasers, Klein says there is the possibility of burns, discolorations, and scarring. With fllers, it's possible to experience bruising, bumps, and swelling. "There are other rare side effects that could come as a result of poor technique," she says. "That's why it's always important to go to a specialist, such as a cosmetic dermatologist or plastic surgeon who is very skilled." Cosmetic Rejuvenation (continued on page 140)